Raku: NYC’s best udon?

Raku, a staple udon restaurant in NYC, has been one of the restaurants I always wanted to visit, and it certainly did not disappoint. The founder, chef Norihiro Ishizuka, had a long culinary journey beginning at the age of thirteen working at Kappo and udon restaurants to support his mother and four other siblings. With over sixty years of culinary experience and several accomplished restaurants under his belt, he brought to fruition his udon noodle concept: Raku. In an homage to his home cooking, Ishizuka created a menu centered around the udon noodle. Voluminous bowls of chewy silky noodles are served in Ishizuka’s signature dashi soup. In addition to an extensive udon offering, Ishizuka also showcases an appetizer menu offering some of Japan’s most classic small bites. Offering a contemporary and minimalist dining space paired with warm service, he seeks to create happy memories for customers through his food.

We went to the Raku in Soho located on MacDougal street, one of the three locations Ishizuka has opened in New York City. (The other two are located in East Village and Midtown) We were lucky enough to get a reservation for the night. Its recent surge in popularity within the city has its visible effects; as the three of us entered, every seat was taken, and people without reservations were being turned away. The inside decor was filled with wooden walls and wood colored designs and decorations, all adding to the warm ambience. The restaurant attempts to highlight its Japanese origin very well with its design, replicating the design of authentic Japanese noodle shops. We were seated at the corner table that barely fit the three of us, though it was understandable given the crowdedness of the place. After meticulously scanning the menu, we were greeted with excellent waiters and service, our waiter even personally asking if there were any allergies at the table. (A big relief to me) We collectively decided to get two appetizers and three udon dishes and a dessert for the end. 

Salmon Oshizushi ($24)

Wow. Just wow. The salmon oshizushi is a fire dish that left a lasting impression. The slight tartness of the lemon zest brought an extra layer of brightness and flavor, cutting through the extreme creaminess and richness of the high quality salmon. With seven pieces, it’s a surprisingly good deal, offering both quantity and quality at the highest level. The touch of salmon roe on top was a delightful detail, adding a unique texture to each bite and a necessary saltiness that pairs with the creaminess of the salmon. If you're looking for a standout sushi option, this is it. 

Pork Gyoza 6pc ($12)

The pork gyoza offered a nice crisp and good flavor both in the filling and the accompanying sauce. They were particularly juicy, filled with a pork juice that had a decadent flavor. However, they were fairly standard, lacking the wow factor that the salmon oshizushi had. While tasty and enjoyable, they didn't bring anything particularly special to the table. These gyozas are a solid choice if you're craving something familiar and comforting. 

Zaru Cold Udon with Vegetable Tempura ($20) 

The zaru cold udon was impressive with its noodles of perfect thickness and firmness, delivering an authentic feel. The dipping sauce, though flavorful, was slightly on the salty side, and the quail egg didn’t add much to the dish. The tempura was light and airy, complemented well by its sauce. However, the tempura selection was a bit disappointing, featuring only onions, carrots, green bell peppers, and an unidentified root, missing out on standard vegetable tempura items.

Toriten Hot Udon (Karaage) ($19) 

The toriten hot udon was a massive portion and a great value for the price. The noodles were perfectly chewy with an excellent thickness, and the broth had a wonderful balance of sweet and savory notes, enhanced by negi and spinach. While the karaage was crispy and tasty, it felt somewhat unnecessary as the udon alone was satisfying enough. This dish is perfect for those with a big appetite looking for a comforting bowl of udon paired with a filling side. 

Gyunan Hot Udon (Beef) ($21) 

The gyunan hot udon featured a hearty, beefy broth that was soul-warming. The springy, chewy noodles were of very good quality, clearly made in-house and not store bought. While the beef contributed significantly to the broth’s depth of flavor, it was not particularly special on its own, not being the best quality and secreting a slightly unpleasant meaty smell. This dish excels in delivering a comforting and hearty soup, perfect for a cozy meal during a cold winter’s day. 

Matcha Azuki Verrine (Dessert) ($10)

The matcha azuki verrine was both interesting and uniquely delicious. The combination of red bean and matcha worked wonderfully together, creating a harmonious flavor profile. The additions of sponge, raspberry, and mochi provided varied textures and tastes, making this dessert a delightful end to the meal. If you're in the mood for something different and flavorful, this verrine is worth a try.

Bonus: Frozen Grapes (Complimentary)

Given after every meal, the frozen grapes at Raku are widely talked about, and prior to eating them, I had heard high praise about them. To my delight, the frozen grapes were refreshing, cold, and provided a much needed palate cleanser after a heavy meal. A perfect end to an A+ meal.