Txikito: A “love letter” to Basque country
Walking into Txikito (pronounced “chiquito”) on a damp Saturday evening, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the “little one,” as translated from Basque. Opened by chefs and owners Alex Raij and Eder Montero in 2008, Txikito closed briefly but reopened in 2022 to bring authentic Basque cuisine downtown. I was greeted by a number of glowing bulbs of warm light spaced out on grayish, wood-planked walls, with a chalkboard reading “Txikito” and a selection of daily specials scrawled in cursive on the wall to my left. I was led past the bar and through a glazed screen door with the Txikito’s signature tree design to another main dining room with white brick walls and clean wood panels. The menus, a striking deep blue complete with a red foil Txikito tree decal, contained an array of dishes spelled with frequent x’s and k’s similar to the restaurant’s name.
I started the meal with Gilda, small, neat skewers of anchovy-wrapped olive with a pickled pepper to complement. Because of the condensed, bite-size presentation, it was tempting to eat one skewer all at once. I did not, and thanked myself after the incredibly strong combination of anchovy, olive, and pickled pepper overwhelmed me. The strength of the flavors were perhaps altogether too much, but as a whole worked in unison toward an intense introduction to Txikito. Perhaps not the ease-in to a new cuisine that I would have liked, but I quickly moved on to the next dish: the Hot Jilda, another set of skewers, consisting this time of Japanese sausage, another pickled pepper, guindilla, and onion with a side of mustard. This I was instructed to eat in one bite by the waiter, and it proved to be a much less abrasive mix of flavors. Each ingredient complemented or contrasted perfectly; the classic sausage and mustard duo was as expected, the savory and salty olive supported the sausage, and the guindilla and onion were excellent choices to cut the other elements. The final appetizer, Patatak y Padron, included standard thick-cut fries alongside with padron peppers and an herby choron sauce on the side. The potatoes were well salted and for the most part had a consistent crisp, pairing well with charred padron peppers akin to smokier, earthier shishitos.
Hot Jilda
Cogollos (gem lettuce hearts), a crab salad special, and Txipirones encebollados (squid cooked in onion) comprised the next series of larger plates. The pair of lettuce hearts remained fresh and crisp even sitting above a bed of tuna and onion and with anchovies draped on top. Although both tuna and anchovy made for a very fish-heavy dish that slightly overpowered the best efforts of the onion and lettuce, a light dressing provided a much-needed citrus aspect. The crab salad, arranged in a line underneath slices of avocado and snap peas, lacked such a citrus aspect, but nevertheless let the crab shine through. The snap peas added both flavor and texture to the crab, whereas the avocado only accomplished the latter. The lack of citrus hung at the back of my mind while finishing the salad, a touch of flavor that would truly push the dish to a new level, but the flavors were still spectacular and the crab exceptional. Txipirones encebollados were perhaps the most interesting plate of the night, consisting of squid cut into spaghetti-like strands immersed in a rich onion sauce. Eaten like pasta, the flavor was perfectly warm, sweet, and not too squid-heavy. While I enjoyed the texture of the squid, it is understandable for some to be bothered if one’s brain expects a pasta consistency.
The final two mains did not disappoint: Mendreska, delicious slices of tender swordfish belly over a smoky, creamy eggplant sauce; and Filete y riojanos, a wagyu filet served over blackened red bell peppers, flattened Sullivan Street Bakery baguette, and bone marrow. Porcini added a woody, nutty dimension to the eggplant and swordfish. The oil from the eggplant sauce had a faint acidity that completed the dish. The filet was far and away the most impressive plate. The charred peppers, decadent bone marrow, and crisp, buttery baguette joined perfectly rare wagyu slices, each with a great crust, composing the most delicious bite of the evening. All elements were neither too heavy nor overpowering, working together in unison.
Basque Butter Cake
The Basque Butter Cake special was the the one dessert course of the night, reflecting Txikito’s commitment to Basque cuisine’s simplicity and great flavor. The bruleed top crust broke perfectly into the moist and tender body of the cake, with grapes embedded in the batter adding hints of sweetness without being too overpowering. Sitting in a melted ice cream-esque crème sauce, the cake was a warm and comforting finale to a great meal.
I was more curious than anything when I visited Txikito, having no expectations simply out of inexperience with Basque cuisine, but I can say for certain that it did not disappoint. The restaurant serves its characteristically simple, shareable Basque dishes with an elevated touch and impresses at nearly every turn. Txikito truly is chefs Raij and Montero’s “love letter,” as they say, to Basque cuisine and should be on everyone’s list to try next.
